Spring is finally here! The cows are excited by the green flush that is spreading through our pastures. These two St. Patty's day calves are starting to nibble grass and bouncing in the sunshine.
Spring Easter calf! Halo gave birth to a girl this morning that looks just like her - spotted eye and skunk markings, except baby has a pink nose. New baby took a long nap in the spring sunshine after having her first meal, an important start to a calf's life.
All of our lambs have been born leaving us with a grand total of 58! Here are two of our orphan lambs, one Katahdin and one Cotswold, having a post-lunch nap. They're fed a milk replacer three times a day and have access to hay which lambs start to nibble on at just a week old.
Our Barred Rock chickens have just started to lay eggs and they are averaging 10 dozen a day! Since they are our youngest laying hens and under a year old, they are technically called 'pullets' and lay eggs about half the size of a normal chicken egg - pullet eggs. These mini eggs are fun fried and boiled.
The rest of our chickens have started laying eggs again too after their winter break. Our Buff Orpingtons, Black Australorps, and Rhode Island Reds enjoyed the sunshine today on the windy Katama plains.
Even with all our new lambs, we can't forget about our cows and their calves from this summer and fall. In fact, we're expecting new calves within the next month! This British-American White Park calf was born this summer but still nurses. Since we raise cows for beef, we don't ever milk them; instead, we let their calves drink mom's milk to grow big and strong. On a dairy farm the calves would be taken from their moms at birth so that humans could milk them instead. Below is a Belted Galloway calf from this fall also nursing on mom.
With two new lambs born this morning, we're now at 43 lambs! This mamma, Irene, and her two babies, Squeak and Isaac, are still my favorites though. Irene is super friendly, and her son Isaac has inherited her calm, inquisitive demeanor. Squeak, however, is Irene's adoptive daughter; another successful lamb grafting! These two siblings are some of the bigger lambs and have been leading the ever-growing pack in playful romps: running circles around moms and doing figure-eight loops through the nursery pen. People who braved the snow yesterday afternoon to come to our lamb viewing time got to see first-hand how playful the lambs have become.
The Island has hosted domestic poultry operations since the European settlers arrived in the mid 1600’s. The Martha’s Vineyard Museum has a wonderful collection of papers from Maurice Delano who ran Owen Farms, which had a national and international reputation between 1905 and 1930. While Owen Farms raised 6000 birds for meat and egg production, its fame came from its “fancy” poultry operation, which shipped show birds all over the country. In Delano’s own words “I breed the best buff and white Orpingtons, white Plymouth Rocks, white Wyandottes and small comb Rhode Island Reds in America.”
The modern broiler industry has historic roots here in Massachusetts. A gentleman named Robert C Cobb Senior purchased a farm in Littleton in 1916 and a decade later was leading the industry as a breeder of Barred Plymouth Rocks, part of the parentage of the highly popular and hugely successful Cornish-Rock cross. In the 1940’s Cobb was breeding a line of white birds knows as White Rocks and paired this with a male line from Vantress. The company was very successful and well respected, and was (is) a major global influence. In 1974 the Upjohn Company purchased them, and Tyson Foods acquired the Vantress line, and in 1986 Tyson and Upjohn formed a joint venture known as Cobb-Vantress. They have continued to grow and are, in fact, one of the three dominant suppliers of breeding stock. The commercial industry is a pyramid structure with the primary breeders (producers of purebred grandparents etc.) supplying a ‘broiler breeder’ or parent stock farm. There the raising of the actual parents takes place, and the eggs from this generation goes to the hatchery (like a Murrray McMurray in Iowa) and from there to ‘grow-out’ farms everywhere, including here on the Vineyard.
The Farm Institute has raised broilers for the past few years, reaching a peak of 1800 in 2011. Due to many influences (staff revolt, cost of grain, our changing philosophy and perspective) we reduced to 600 for the last two years, and for 2014, we might do only 100. What’s that about? After all we have our own inspected and licensed facility and we process our birds with a combination of staff, volunteers and some of the well-trained folks from IGI’s mobile unit. That cost is very reasonable, our birds taste great, sell well and provide a teaching point….or do they?
We started raising the Cornish Rock crosses in ‘chicken tractors’ similar to the idea popularized by Joel Salatin. The goal is make a movable structure that provides shelter and an enclosed area (‘pasture’) for the birds. The chores are basic: food, water, and moving the birds and their structure to a new area of pasture. We would have anywhere from 4 -6 of these mobile homes operating at once. As I got more familiar with this operation and spent time just observing (the number one most critical livestock skill) I got uneasy. Farm Manager Julie was instrumental in addressing one of our concerns: this breed of chicken simply wasn’t adapting to the outdoor life. The Murray McMurray blurb for this bird sounds pretty good: "This is the most remarkable meat producing bird we have ever seen. Special matings produce chicks with broad breasts, big thighs, white plumage, and yellow skin. The rapid growth of these chicks is fantastic and the feed efficiency remarkable.” However, in our experience they seemed a bit indifferent to their outdoor life and mostly liked to sit down. The lineage was designed for indoor commercial production where, in an environmentally controlled life, they could gain rapidly, convert efficiently and go to slaughter on a highly predictable schedule at a uniform weight. Not a good description of life at TFI.
Julie introduced birds to the Farm that have many names: Kosher Kings, Barred Rangers, Colored Rangers, Freedom Rangers, Silver Barred, and so on. It was difficult to follow the genetics through the name changes but it was immediately apparent that these were a better breed for what we were doing. It yielded a more ‘bird-like’ carcass, a more reasonable breast:thigh ratio and they wanted to forage! Here’s what Murray McMurray has to say about these birds: "The breast meat is in natural proportion to the leg meat. It has yellow skin, shanks and beak with dark red feathers showcasing black highlights. An excellent forager, the Red Ranger is able to withstand the free range or natural living environment very well.” (Other sources are JM Hatchery and Freedom Ranger Hatchery. There is a good article here:http://www.themodernhomestead.us/article/cornish+cross+alternatives.html). So, a much better bird for us, and we really liked how they performed, and tasted. However, to be honest, they were not popular with the restaurants who wanted the larger breasted birds and the higher ratio of white meat to dark meat. Our local consumers and families were quite pleased, however.
Yet, we were still uneasy. Chickens are omnivores, just like us. One of the popular talking points about ‘pasture-raised’ chickens is that they’re out there in the pasture, just eating away. Yes, they eat the bugs and grubs they can find, peck at the tender young plants, scratch and act decidedly chicken-like. But, they still need to be supplemented with protein, energy, minerals and vitamins if we want them to grow efficiently - grow meaning: lean meat deposition on healthy bones. So, just like pigs, we buy a complete feed for them and offer it free-choice while they’re in their single-story ranchettes.
So, we buy the chicks from off-island and transport them here. We place them in outside shelters, move them frequently and process them humanely, right here on the farm. But we also purchase about 80% or more of their nutrient needs and import that to the island as well. And that feed, while blended to our specifications by our good friends at Ventura Grain in Taunton, is based on grains and proteins grown back in the Midwest.
This winter Julie and I reviewed all this. We decided that this year we’d raise enough birds for Meals in the Meadow, and continue with our heritage turkeys but we would exit the broiler business. We shared our thoughts with other members of our staff at regular meetings and at lunch. I was really pleased that the vegetarians on staff were professionally neutral and objective even though you could see them straining with the effort. We looked at it financially (selling $20-$30 frozen birds requires someone who is willing to buy a $20-$30 frozen bird) and at our labor commitment. We puzzled about the educational opportunity - what did kids learn about broiler birds? What would they miss? Objectively, would the (absolutely endearingly fabulous) turkeys substitute for whatever was learned from the chickens? And, what about all those ‘pasture raised locally grown’ conversations?
Financially, the economics mimic those of the pigs I wrote about before, with the exception that the birds do a far better job of converting purchased feed to meat. So, there is some money to be made, depending on the bird weight and breed, probably $5 and more per bird. But, for us, it is more about the educational process and finding the right fit between the Katama Farm’s grassland and the animals we choose to raise. So, for now, we’ll park the tractors and tend to our sheep and cattle. I’m doing my best to ignore the goats that keep showing up.
So far, seventeen of our fifty-five ewes (female sheep) have given birth and the nursery pen is bouncing with lamb energy. Come feeding time, the barn is turned upside-down with sheep scrambling to get to food and lambs calling to their mothers through the confusion. Meanwhile, the majority of our flock has yet to lamb and they calmly wait outside the barn door for dinner to be served. Here is a group of our Katahdin hair sheep soaking up the winter sunshine while they patiently wait. Notice the big ol' pregnant belly on the center one!
Welcome new lambs! Fourteen and counting. We had one orphan lamb who we successfully 'grafted' onto a new mother. This means she adopted him as her own and is now raising him along with the son she gave birth to. Here they are hanging with mom while she has some dinner.
We welcomed six new Katahdin mamas-to-be this week, can't wait to meet their lambs!